Ice Man's 2nd floor Remodel - Help Please!
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Printed Date: April 25 2024 at 5:49pm
Topic: Ice Man's 2nd floor Remodel - Help Please!
Posted By: Ice Man
Subject: Ice Man's 2nd floor Remodel - Help Please!
Date Posted: May 29 2014 at 5:10pm
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I'm almost finished gutting the 2nd floor, all but the bathroom will be completely gutted. The bathroom will be changed at a later date. I need to change the layout but I'm not sure which way to go.
Built in 1912, converted later for updated bathroom, and hydronic heating. The original layout ( http://teamobc.com/original_layout.pdf - Original Floorplan ) had a room in the middle which you needed to travel trough to get to one of the front bedrooms. As it seems unnecessary to have 4 rooms upstairs, and a tiny master bedroom, I decided it would be best to either create a master suite, or at least enlarge all of the rooms. Also, I want to change the location of the bathroom door and toilet, adding a double sink. Example of what I was thinking: http://teamobc.com/example_1.pdf - Example Layout Adding a walk-in closet and increasing the bedroom by 12 inches: http://teamobc.com/my_plan.pdf - Walk-in closet The door for the closet could be shifted to allow for a vanity in that little area, or perhaps adjust the size of the closet to allow for a small loveseat and table. So, I have a tendency to lock myself into 1 design so I thought it'd be fun to share my project with everyone and see if the more experienced people here on the forum would have a better way to utilize the space that I have. Here is a blank layout if anyone wants to print it out to write on. http://teamobc.com/blank_drawing.pdf - Blank Layout edited to add the video walk-through: Video walk through: http://rocknskate.com/final_vid.mp4 - Click here for the video Long video, lots of "umms" and "uhhs", I apologize in advance. Give it time to load as it's in 720p. |
Replies:
Posted By: Gadget
Date Posted: May 29 2014 at 10:05pm
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I think I would look at it in terms of value. Around the NW, a bedroom is worth about 8000-12000 depending on the neighborhood, while a walk in closet in the master bed is worth about 3000. Interested in taking any pictures for a better idea? ------------- |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: May 30 2014 at 1:09pm
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I'll put together a video walk-through. I do know that attempting 4 bedrooms upstairs would be bad, there's just not enough space. But there is a bonus room off the kitchen, might have been a porch at one time, I don't know, but it's big enough for a bedroom. It's actually where my bedroom is now while I remodel. You do have to go through this room to go out the back door, so technically I can't call it a bedroom, but it works for me. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: May 30 2014 at 11:56pm
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Houses with multiple bedrooms are going out of style as American families are getting smaller. I don't know how many bathrooms you have but IMO if you can squeeze out extra bathroom upstairs for those two bedrooms you will actual add value to your house. Now I don't know which way your floor joists are or whether or not you can gain the extra drop for your waste but I would seriously look into that. Also you don't need a bathtub in the masters, a walk in shower. The extra bathroom should have a tub since to resale those rooms would be the kids room and kids bath. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: May 31 2014 at 6:01pm
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Main beam runs front of house to back, floor joists run from the sides (left to right as seen in the drawing. The main waste is located to the side of the toilet (6 feet from bottom corner, 1 square = 1 foot). I can run an additional waste line somewhere in the middle of the floor plan if needed, straight to the basement. But I think I could use the space adjacent to the wall of the existing bathroom for the master bath. I'd have to check code, but it would put me about 8 feet from the existing waste, if that's not too far. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: May 31 2014 at 10:40pm
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You could do that, remove the adjoining close, run your drop parallel with joints to other toilet on other side of the one your draw up, a shower between the toilet and exterior wall. Of course you still need a vanity placement but that should be easy to do. The bed can be placed between the two windows on the left. It would be tight but you can make that work. It would be the easiest and cheapest rout to go. Need to give it some more thought. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: May 31 2014 at 10:43pm
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Figure in 1/4 drop per foot, you might be able to go less on short runs if you're using 4 inch pipe.
------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: June 01 2014 at 6:39pm
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I would not trust the guy who posted above me.
He had his license pulled in my state for shotty work  ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 2:21pm
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Hey Enrich,
If you gave Conan a drawing of lower floor to see where closets, current main stack for plumbing and kitchen are now, it would be beneficial. IMO.3- bdrm 2 bathrms upstairs ------------- 
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 2:51pm
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Thanks Connor. I've been giving that some thought and I agree that a master bath is going to be the way to go. I just uploaded a video walk-through of the upstairs that include location of the stack and some other challenges I'm facing.
An additional waste and water line run could be located 15 - 16 feet down from the top of the drawings, and 12 feet from the left. (see my first post for the drawings) Video walk through: http://rocknskate.com/final_vid.mp4 - Click here for the video Long video, lots of "umms" and "uhhs", I apologize in advance. Give it time to load as it's in 720p. ------------- |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 6:02pm
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After watching that vid.Pray for a natural disaster or..... ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 8:38pm
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Your walk in closet on your sample drawings what is beneath it? Can you get to basement from there? at the end of the hall? That would be another idea location for kids bath, and convert existing bath into a masters. And then you have the ability to use the wall on your right when you walk into masters as a large closet. It won't be a walking in thou. Other option is make the master bath and bedroom in top two bedrooms and that eliminates the hallway and lost sq footage. Just need to know where you can make your drop. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 8:52pm
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The blocking between joist should work, other side you could use hangers.And yes you should vent the roof if you can. Some screen on suffit and then ridge vent will allow cross ventilation. http://www.bestlouver.com/product_info.php?products_id=38 - http://www.bestlouver.com/product_info.php?products_id=38 Also you could have avoiding that blocking if your going to make that area your mater bedroom by shoving a beam up there and then hang the joists off of that. That would open up entire two rooms. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 8:57pm
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As for your closet, I'm going to be doing that on one job. Making the closets built in piece of furniture out of eastern cherry shaker style. That and Murphy bed. Might be a nice little nich for me. Have one coming up thats going to be made out of Walnut....and new walnut bar in center of the house as you walk in. Fun projects. Some point I need to get new mic because I have few things I want to upload to may website. Those piece should be nice addition. Did the tomato juice help? LOL ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 8:59pm
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Yes....get some support underneath that bearing wall next to stairs. Undload as much crap out of the jobsite before jacking up. Since it all lath and plaster get rid of it. That would be the first thing I would do before doing anything else. Get the job site prepped. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 9:06pm
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Downstairs drawing: http://teamobc.com/downstairs.pdf - Click here
Possible new drop locations: http://teamobc.com/new_drops.pdf - Click here I like the location of the existing bathroom as the kids bath, only because its location is ideal if you have guests, they won't need a map to find it. Although I must admit, with the current layout it would be perfect for a master bath - just gotta get rid of that pink tub. ------------- |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 9:14pm
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I don't know if I can get access to the soffit. There are two windows in the attic, one in the front, one in the back. I do not have a ridge vent, and the roof vents that were there got covered up when I had the metal roof installed. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 10:28pm
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I made a copy of floor plan. I see two options. One move the master to front of the house and use the center of house drop site for master bath, which eliminates the wasted hall space or use that area for the kids bath, and convert existing bath to master bath and use that closet space to enlarge that bathroom. I need to give it some more thought but I know their is a way, just haven't put my finger on it yet. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Gadget
Date Posted: June 03 2014 at 10:30pm
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I'm looking from an investor point of view again, but I would look into turning the bath into a master bath. Different markets favor different things, but we add about 3000 for a master bath. We do take off about 2000 if there are bedrooms on a floor with no access to a bathroom. About 4-5000 added for a clearly obvious master bed. ------------- |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 04 2014 at 2:28pm
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I've pretty much settled on 3 Bedrooms upstairs (1 master, 2 regular) and 2 bathrooms, one being the master bath with shower stall, the other having a tub, etc. Walk-in closet is optional.
With the master I may want to have some kind of separation between the toilet and the rest of the bath. A half wall would be fine, gives you a place to set the febreeze. ;) ------------- |
Posted By: vorlon
Date Posted: June 04 2014 at 4:59pm
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watched the vid last night, so much potential. One thing that would have helped though in my opinion was............
what is the layout of the downstairs, any bedrooms etc? which part of the house is south facing also would it be possible to look to upgrade the bath to maybe a large corner unit one ? One thing that does need to be taken into account is the whole location, the surrounding houses and area. you could spend 30k doing the upstairs or you could spend 10k but the extra 20k spend might only add 5k value to the property really depends on your long term objectives with the house as to how much to spend or change I would say |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: June 05 2014 at 6:31pm
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That's scary. I had the same idea of moving the kids bathroom to same spot and leave the two bedrooms basically where they are and convert the existing bath into masters or move the masters to front of house the way you have it with masters bath. What you did was same thing I was thinking, eliminated the wasted hall space and maximized what hall space you do have to gain entry. Tried to reply that email but for some reason I wasn't able to send. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 05 2014 at 8:10pm
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Vorlon, I included a drawing of the downstairs a few posts ago and possible locations for a new waste line. The front of the house (small bedrooms) is 30 degrees off from fully facing south (top left corner faces south). No bedrooms downstairs, however, there was a porch that they closed in for an extra room, I am sleeping there now. The door to the backyard is in this room, so we couldn't really call it a bedroom.
Here is Connor's idea: http://teamobc.com/connors_idea.pdf - Click here ------------- |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: June 11 2014 at 5:31pm
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Update? ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: June 11 2014 at 8:15pm
Haven't had a chance to do much work, still gutting, still removing old insulation. Going to be cleaning up a bit and setting up a laser level to see just how bad things are out of square upstairs. Current job situation has me thinking I may need to keep my budget as low as possible. This may become a rental unit in the near future. The master bath wouldn't need to be completed right away as long as I had a functioning main bath. In the attic today, found a high school Latin exam from the late 50's, and some newspaper from 1965 placed under a stack of old shingles. ------------- |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 19 2014 at 11:16pm
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I am having the worst time removing that old insulation. It's probably some form of cellulose that was untreated and has since deteriorated down to almost a powder. It's worse than plaster dust.
Anyway. I've been kicking around the idea of vaulting the ceiling on the second floor. Perhaps not the whole thing , but just in the front and in the back by creating a scissor truss and removing the old joists. Has anyone had any experience doing this? I'm pretty sure I'm going to have to reinforce the roof rafters, currently 2x4 rough cut, with 2x6s and then proceed to create something like this: http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/5227/Scissor-Truss.jpg - http://www.allischalmers.com/forum/uploads/5227/Scissor-Truss.jpg ------------- |
Posted By: Vindictive
Date Posted: August 20 2014 at 11:11am
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amazing how a few ideas for fixing up turn into a complete remodel. watch for old newspapers stuffed into the walls, depending on how old the structure is, might find some interesting things. ------------- 
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Posted By: IvIi$$
Date Posted: August 22 2014 at 8:24pm
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Hell watch for the millions. When you find them let me know and I will book my flight. <hugs> Miss ------------- Give me liberty or give me death. |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 22 2014 at 11:41pm
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I wouldn't recommend it, you have to build them in place and sorry I do not think you have the experience. You would be better off carrying the load with beam underneath the ridge and sister up the rafters, then you can cut away the joist. As long as you have your load points taken all the way down to foundation. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 23 2014 at 6:15pm
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That's one issue with the current layout. The load points do not go straight to the basement. Compare http://teamobc.com/downstairs.pdf - 1st floor drawing to the http://teamobc.com/original_layout.pdf - 2nd floor drawing .
I'm dealing with balloon construction, which I have a basic understanding of. I'm not sure if the front and back of the house have enough support in the walls to carry that of a lvl beam in the attic. I'm also trying to keep costs down. A beam like that requires an engineer and a crew to install it. Whereas building scissor joists in place is something I can do on my own time. May still need an engineer for guidance, but at least I'm not paying $5,000 for a beam. Sound reasonable? ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 23 2014 at 7:29pm
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Well they would have to be built in place and installed working around existing rafters/joists.....make sure you wear a hardhat because you're going to bang your head. As for being worth it, I don't see you getting any return out of it unlike having that second bathroom IMO. I forgot how to upload a picture to this forum but I can show you a large rafter I built that supported the entire roof from underneath. It wasn't easy. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 24 2014 at 3:48am
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I think I remember that house - the over engineered beam if I recall correctly?
My attic has a height of 7'9" give or take, which makes it ideal for storage, but not so much for an extra room as the most width I could get is about 7 feet, probably less after having the space finishe, so that idea is out. The attic floor joists are rough cut 2x6's and if you recall in the walk-through video, I already have issues to contend with regarding those joists. The roof rafters are rough cut 2x4's on 16 inch centers. Not legal by today's standards. [edit: no other supports, no trussing, no collar ties, no ridge beam, not even a ridge board] My thought process is that if I vault the ceilings slightly, roof is ~7/12, so I could get maybe 3/12 on the ceiling, it would help to add some height to the rooms (currently 7'6" I think) and allow me to add ceiling fans, etc. But also, it would take some weight off the floors. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 24 2014 at 5:13pm
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If you go to my website and look under cabinets you will see that truss. What I would do then if your insist on doing this is to sister up the rafters with 2x6's, then crossover another 2x6 to upper third of rafter on other side, do that on both sides and then slide in another 2x6 in between the two new rafters half way up the slope.....that would be your tie rafter. And then bolt together at four intersections. That's probably the easiest without killing yourself. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 25 2014 at 7:55pm
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Put together another video describing visually what I am looking at.
http://teamobc.com/roof_final.wmv - Roof rafter, vaulting If I change the floor plan around I will have no choice but to re-engineer the beam. The attic floor (second floor ceiling) is not level and is 6 inches too low for my taste. Vaulting the ceiling would solve several issues, including removing load from the center of the house for which is not carries directly to the basement. I did leave out one part of the truss in the video, it's there in pencil, just didn't mention it. Conan, what do you think? ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 25 2014 at 10:26pm
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You got the idea but as I said I would still slide in a tie between those two crossover rafters. You can slide that tie up and down to give yourself a small flat ceiling. Bolt the 4 points and the center once you have your elevation. Use plywood gust to fashion the collar tie new rafters. The more you disperse the load the better. But you do need that tie to prevent the load pushing out the walls. Your idea will work but actual scissor truss locked in with tie is better. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 3:38am
Now I'm wondering if using 2x6's is unnecessary.
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Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 10:44am
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I just checked your span and its at around 24 ft. What's the pitch? I'm thinking you may not have to sister up the rafters. If you do what I was recommending I would use 2x6's. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 1:14pm
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Top of the joists to peak of the roof is approximately 8 feet. So that would be 8/12. I'm only trying to vault the ceiling around 3/12. So such a low pitch wouldn't require the extra tie you are mentioning. To create the collar tie I think I would use a 2x6 and then use 2x4s for the ceiling joists and bridging.
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Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 2:43pm
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I like conans idea of 2x6...you can only span 2x4 so much...2x6 will not need extra supports to carry the 50 lbs per sq foot or possibly more in your area (snow load)(see all the extra support needed on engineered truss) His idea is simple..1 guy can do it and bolting is great idea...im guessing the only thing your roof rafters are good for now is furniture so nailing is out of the question and screws do not have the sheer strength...you can also run a steel strap from your bottom bolt connection at outside wall around plates to connect to outside walls.
Likely your rafters are slung down some. Run a string line and try to straighten out a bit as you stick frame your new truss. -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 4:31pm
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I'm just a bit lost on what conan's idea is specifically. I work better visually. From what I gather, its more like this:
And then use 2x6's for 'B' and 'C'? And then use bolts to connect at 4 corners and where each 'C' board meets? I do like the design depicted above, but I think my idea would add more strength as it brings the collar tie down further, uses less wood, and therefor less weight. ------------- |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 5:53pm
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B is redundant unless you want a deck above for storage or something...unnecessary material.
You will have to strap the bottom side of C ( 2x4)at middle of span to stop side deflection. Wouldnt hurt to strap the top of C also mid span if you want to over kill it...the connection where the 2 Cs cross is a support point. The 2x6 gives you far more strength than 2x4. C provides the brace that you are thinking B will do therefore B is not needed. The design pushes all the load to the outside walls. If there is not a ridge board at the top and the current rafters just butt to each other you will have to gusset the top of new 2x6 to tie together and block in between each set of rafters. Put new 2x6 rafters right beside existing 2x4 rafters and bolt together. Are your existing ceiling joists under existing rafters or are they beside them. The sheathing or ship lap ..what ever the sheathed the roof with is the connection between old and new rafters...you wouldnt have to attach new rafters to roof sheathing. You could also use PL premium adhesive when you are setting you new rafters to the old and bolt together. -------------
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Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 6:37pm
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Yes, but bring B down to intersect of both C. You could also bring B farther down and give yourself a small flat ceiling at the top. BTW, farther down that slope adds strength to prevent the walls from bucking out. Make sure they area all bolted together or strapped. 2x6 will shore up the 2x4 rafters and support 12 plus ft of ceiling span for your drywall. And as Connor said 2x6 is twice as strong as 2x4. Specially if you're using bolts. You can use strap or bolts, or use plywood to gusset your rafters too. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 26 2014 at 8:21pm
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Like in this design, if both 'C' were to meet in the middle, rather than connecting straight across, I wouldn't need such a large 2x6, maybe 14' each.
'B' would act more as a collar tie rather than a rafter tie, offering strength and supporting the connection between both 'C'. I would not use 'A' but would use both 'D'. 
Now, I believe I stand a snowballs chance in hell taking a 2x6 and sistering it to my existing roof rafters. They are a 100 years old and have bowed just a little bit. But they are a full 4" (not 3.5" like todays lumbers, and I believe probably a stronger wood.) And looking at trusses today being made out of 2x4, I'm thinking I should be able to get away with it. The collar tie will prevent any future bowing, right? There is no ridge beam/board, rafters are butted up to each other. So adding a rafter tie (about 1 foot below the peak) or a gusset plate would probly be a god idea. Here are some pics of current roof and joists. 
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Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: August 27 2014 at 10:23am
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do you have a truss Company near you?
Make a sketch of what you have, note the size of existing lumber and see if someone will give you 10 mins to see if you can alter whats existing. -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: August 28 2014 at 4:20pm
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Yes, there is one nearby. I may be able to sneak a few minutes of their time and get their opinion.
It wasn't my intention to go so deep in thought about it here on the forum, my reason for posting about it was to see if anyone had ever had any experience in doing it. Most of the books on renovations and snippets of information on youtube and on the web don't ever seem to cover aspects of dealing with a house built in 1912. ------------- |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: August 28 2014 at 5:44pm
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Thats sum mighty fine WOOD u go there. ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: September 02 2014 at 12:33pm
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in your last diagram of truss...dont think you can omitt A
Imagine placing a couple of squares of ashfault shingles at #2 or 4...Conans design is stronger...I get you dont like the length of lumber youll be playing with but youll be stick framing till the cows come home otherwise -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: September 03 2014 at 5:29pm
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One thing I failed to mention, and I believe now at this point I may have no choice but to seek an engineer. The apartment to the left was added on at some point. What they did was use 2x6s and tied in at top of the rafters on my side by removing just enough roofing material. There's a knee wall supporting the middle of the roof near the original outside wall of the house.
So not only is my existing rafters supporting snow load, and dead load (shingles and now a metal roof), it's supporting the lower pitched roof addition. I'll let you all know what the engineer says once I have enough money together to hire him.  ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: September 03 2014 at 8:24pm
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You're talking about the cable end, That can be secured with some strong backing tied into with your new lower rafters. You will have some flecks but that's what sheer walling will fix IMO. But even now as it is their nothing hold that wall together except the old lath and plaster. ;) ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: September 08 2014 at 3:24pm
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X X O O X O O X O O Just wanted to see if I could do a diagram without using any fancy technology. When they added the addition (on the left) they used 2x6s for roof rafters (shown as 'X') and just nailed in to the peak of my roof rafters. When I bought the place the upside was that the roof was shingled only 2 years prior (or was it 5 years). Anyway, nobody said anything about ice dams forming and water penetrating the roof on the left side. We found that out the hard way. We had a metal roof put on and that solved the problem. If I had more money at the time I would have had an entire new roof put on. Anyway, if I decide to not vault the ceilings and just leave everything the way it is, what would you recommend I do to help stiffen the existing roof rafters on my side? I fear this could turn into a money pit, so I need to keep an open mind about things. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: September 09 2014 at 4:52pm
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Now you're talking. You weren't ever going to get any return on your investment.....your area is way to depressed. Sadly you're also sitting on billions of cubic feet of natural gas aren't you? But anyway spread the load out using couple of strong backing and plywood to prevent any flexing. Keep it simple. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: September 09 2014 at 5:57pm
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Considering what I paid for the place, the $/sq.ft is great, but like you said, the area is not.
I just figured if I was going to gut the second floor I would take the time to consider other improvements and try to increase value where I could. But with the economy and now some uncertainty with my job, I may need to change gears a bit. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: September 10 2014 at 11:23am
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Not good when you uncertain about your job and you have your house opened up like a can or worms. LOL
------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: September 10 2014 at 4:36pm
Its good to be U N I O N.No worries. ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: September 10 2014 at 6:44pm
Yes, because I just LOVE what the unions have done for our area. GM - Gone. Reynolds Metals - Gone. Alcoa - shut down one plant, minimized workforce in another, would rather offer overtime because with all of the Union forced perks it's way too expensive to hire new people. Edit: And in the news regarding union workers at Corning in Upstate NY: Corning officials tell 7 News reporter John Friot the company is seeking workers to take temporary furloughs from September 28 through January 5, 2015. That's an unpaid leave, by the way. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: September 11 2014 at 12:35pm
It's better to walk out to my shop with cup of coffee to work while listening to radical right-wing talk radio or classic rock. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: October 15 2014 at 11:31am
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Hows things going with the project? -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: October 15 2014 at 12:40pm
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Moving slowly. Hopefully picking up insulation this week to have installed. Changed gears and have been working on the wall that separates the kitchen from the dining room.
Upstairs the floor sinks about 3/4" inch over 8 feet or so starting from the wall, very noticeable. So I am hoping to reduce that some by replacing this wall and changing the layout to accommodate the fridge. Also correcting some electrical issues as well. One dining room outlet is on the same circuit as the boiler, another outlet is on a lighting circuit and the fridge is currently sharing an outlet with the microwave and dishwasher. Fridge is getting it's own circuit and the two dining outlets will be added to the kitchen circuit as per code. Going to keep the opening in the wall, it's just going to shift to the right some. Instead of a small counter it's going to be a breakfast bar for the dining room. The kitchen side of that wall will feature new base cabinets and counter top (two things that I am short on). Recessed lights to light up the breakfast bar, and recessed lighting throughout the kitchen to replace the single fixture in the middle of the kitchen. The opening going into the kitchen will change as I am going to build the wall out about 18 inches on the right. This will create a space for a built-in pantry where the microwave is currently sitting. 
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Posted By: Sith
Date Posted: October 16 2014 at 1:43pm
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I approve of your wine larder, is that a bottle of Jim Beam I see there? ------------- 
Only Now, At The End Do You Understand. |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: October 16 2014 at 3:04pm
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Jack Daniels Tennessee Honey. But there is a bottle of Jim Beam right behind it. ------------- |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: October 16 2014 at 4:42pm
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Never a bad plan to re-think your plan...
Is the JD your secret ingredient for bar-bq sauce or replacement for Nyquil. -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: October 27 2014 at 3:08pm
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It's actually a sedative I take when I'm done trying to figure out how to create something level in a not-so-level house. As my friend would say, "there's 'level', and then there's 'level to the eye'", and that pretty much when I pour myself some JD on the rocks.
Framing is done, electrical is done (except for some staples in these photos and 1 more line to run), and everything rewired how it pretty much should be. Fridge is on it's own 20amp circuit, lights are on a lighting circuit, outlets are on an outlet circuit, and now when I turn off the furnace/boiler, it's the only thing that shuts off. 
I'm fairly certain I chose boxes that were too big for this application, but I'll tell you what, I really enjoyed having the extra room in each one for the wiring. Just need to run one more line from the new light switch to the lights that will be over the counter, and I need to move the existing light switches to a different wall. ------------- |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: October 27 2014 at 4:11pm
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Nice, Is there a cabinet going against that wall on the kitchen side? Might want to put blocks in for backing now...same on dining side if you decide to do a sill and apron with wood or bar shelf or what ever youll have some backing for fastening. -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: October 27 2014 at 5:31pm
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There will be base cabinets and a counter top (no back splash) on the kitchen side. The dining room side will have a bar height counter top. Once I determine how best to support that counter top it would definitely be good idea to add blocks. It's going to extend out from the wall about 10 - 11 inches, for a total of 14-15 inches in depth. I was thinking either American Walnut butcher block, or finding some original 2x4's from the second floor and planing them down and gluing them together. I like the idea of taking something that was original to the house and reusing it.
On the dining room side of the refrigerator wall where that counter top would end I may create a nice built-in shelving unit. Light it from the top and use glass shelves for the top half, wood shelves for the bottom. ------------- |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: October 28 2014 at 6:21pm
Non-UNION work really shows there 
Looks like C'S butchering  ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: October 28 2014 at 7:33pm
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A couple of corbels would work, maybe even 3...but you need to block between studs where you think they would be best placed..2x8 or 2x10 block. A few staples to keep the wire in the middle of stud, they like to see a staple (max) 12" from each box and same where its going through the floor, so theres no issues after drywall goes on. Think you call it sheet rock down there. -------------
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Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: October 28 2014 at 7:59pm
Said the butcher of NE Ohio...... ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: October 30 2014 at 8:03pm
There is nothing plumb, straight (except me), or level in that house. Anything more than what I am doing is the equivalent of lipstick on a pig. Anyway, the last time I hired Union I had to provide my own Vaseline. The ceilings were originally 8'2" give or take. They dropped them 8" which means I have enough space for recessed lighting in the kitchen. Going to move forward with that. ------------- |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: October 31 2014 at 12:38pm
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You can also have indirect lighting if you're really want to be fancy.
------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: October 31 2014 at 12:41pm
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Also why Vaseline Ice? Union members have a wide ass. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: November 02 2014 at 8:46am
EVERY 1 IS WHORE TRADING HOURS FOR $.  ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: November 03 2014 at 11:33am
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Hey Ice....I couldn't help noticing you ran the wire where you're going to screw the base cabinets into the studs. Most cabinets have backing to mount the cabinets between 31 to 34.5 inches. off the floor. I run the wire at 24 inches or so. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: November 03 2014 at 4:50pm
Coming from a sheeple who thinks we live in a democracy....
 ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Connor
Date Posted: November 03 2014 at 5:03pm
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hey PF, your taking over this thread...lets start a thread on guns and ammo and you can pick up from there.
Keep the pics coming Ice as you progress. -------------
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Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: November 03 2014 at 8:07pm
I just picked up the cabinets today. The had a banged up 36" cabinet that I got for $100.00 (the damage is on the sides): http://www.lowes.com/pd_69416-66150-28+B36_1z0x3hm+1z10e4q__?productId=50140684&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=Hickory - Click Here And on each side will be a 15" cabinet: http://www.lowes.com/pd_178675-66150-28+B15R_1z0x3hm+1z10e4q__?productId=50134822&Ns=p_product_qty_sales_dollar|1&pl=1¤tURL=%3FNs%3Dp_product_qty_sales_dollar%7C1%26page%3D1&facetInfo=Hickory - Click here I've never installed cabinets before so this will certainly be a first. I've seen it done plenty of times (youtube videos are helpful). These are 35" cabinets, I was planning on 34.5" but the opportunity to pick up a $256 cabinet for $100 was too good to pass up, the damage is easy to fix. As for the wiring, I'll have to measure it, I thought I had kept it high enough to avoid issues with install the cabinets. I just finished moving the location of the old light switches and rewired the kitchen and installed recessed lights. I do need to locate a new 3-way switch for the dining room light coming in from the living room. They installed the 2nd switch in a weird location. In the process of installing the recessed lighting I discovered that I could see the waste lines and plumbing for the bath tub. Notice what looks like to be a hole in the pipe on the first pic. Second pick is of the bathtub drain and supply. 
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Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: November 04 2014 at 12:02pm
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Line up the cabinets the way you want them, clamp them together and tap out your screw holes with a countersink screw bit and then drill them together. Then have it in place, set any shims you need to have it level, plumb. Make sure the face of the cabinets are flat, otherwise your draws and doors won't close flat against the cabinet face. Are you talking about the hole at your finger? looks like an old drop line went through there once. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: November 04 2014 at 1:33pm
Nope, look at the middle of the picture, above the painted portion of the pipe, just above where that odd 2x6 is laying, on the left side of the pipe. ------------- |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: November 05 2014 at 3:27pm
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sh*t connor.That was suppose to be in another thread. ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: November 05 2014 at 3:29pm
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You going to re-do that copper line in pvc?Is/was
that a lead joint? ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: November 05 2014 at 4:35pm
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I believe it's the waste line from the bath tub so if it was lead I am not concerned. If I am able to renovate that bathroom I do want to move the tub, in which case the entire stack is going to get replaced. There's probably $100 in copper and cast iron right there. I believe the kitchen sink drain connects to copper as well. ------------- |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: May 30 2015 at 4:00pm
After working on my nephews apartment side of the house I finally got back to my side. I think the drywall mud is going to cost an arm and a leg to get this looking right. Still need to install a few pieces here and finish another section that's not in the photo.
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Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: May 30 2015 at 7:06pm
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Lookin good. ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Conan
Date Posted: May 30 2015 at 8:13pm
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Mud is cheap, just don't try to do it all at once. Tape, make sure you have just enough mud for tape to hold. Before applying second coat don't sand just use your trowel as a scrapper and knock off the high spots then apply your second coat on one wall and one side of corner. Let that dry and do other wall and opposite corner. This way you're not marking up the free mud. Scrap walls and then third touch up coat. Then sand. Looks easy but it's not, your really have to have a feel for trowel. I use light weigh topping compound, little more expensive like a dollar more per box but it make life easier. ------------- "The leftists cannot think for themselves...they have already given into the spirit of collectivism" |
Posted By: Shine|RPMMod~
Date Posted: August 11 2015 at 7:29pm
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if you ever have any heating or cooling questions feel free to ask me.
------------- Notorious -][FU][-|ShineDown| 
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Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: August 25 2015 at 5:08pm
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update? ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |
Posted By: Ice Man
Date Posted: April 06 2020 at 2:51pm
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For those interested I thought I would update this thread.
My nephew living in the apartment next to me had a baby on the way so I spent my time updating his side of the house. We expanded the size of the bathroom which was ridiculously small and installed a new tub, sink, and window. All new electric, ceiling fan/light combo, leveled the floor and we were able to raise the ceiling about 8 inches. Both bedrooms were remodeled. Added insulation, new electric, new subfloor (added blocking to help stiffen the floor), sheetrock and carpet. I had mentioned earlier that I was having to deal with the removal of the 'insulation' used in the attic floor in my house. I finally created a method to remove it. I bought a cyclonic separator and mounted it to the lid of a 20 gallon barrel. I'd put a garbage in the barrel and lock the lid down. In my shop vac I used a regular filter and a sheetrock dust collection bag. The ultra fine particles that escaped the cyclonic separator would end up in the collection bag inside the shop vac rather than clogging up the filter. This still took a long time to remove all of the insulation material and debris because is would get stuck in the hose - lots of bits of scrap lathe whatever else. I do not recall how many bags we pulled out, but I think it was at least 50-60 of a manageable, easy to carry, weight. Remainder of the ceilings were removed along with non-load bearing walls. At this point work upstairs had stopped. The rink I was working at had closed and shortly after that I began working 6 months out of the year in VA, and during the other 6 months my GF and I began working on and investing in our own business. We had been using the upstairs as our workshop. Our work season was extended almost 4 months two years ago which left us just enough time to operate our own business. Last year we had changed what we do for our own business and no longer need the workshop space upstairs. But her sister was expecting her first baby so we focused our attention on making her house ready for the baby. We replaced the stove in the kitchen, shored up the wall behind the stove to be able to mount a microwave above the stove along with new cabinetry. Repaired and reshingled the roof and built new front steps. Replaced subfloor in the living room and installed hardwood floor in the baby's room. Fixed some electric and other stuff along the way. The baby turns 11 months old shortly and she has been such a beautiful addition to the world. So now that we have some time we are ready to start work again upstairs. We started removing the flooring to expose the floor joists in an effort to level the floors and add blocking. In the meantime we are reviewing the floor plans and have determined that we do want to add a master bath. Due to limited income the process will be slower than we want it to be. We also are trying to open a retail store for the summer. At the beginning of October we'll be back in VA for 6 months. I'll add some photos when I get a chance. |
Posted By: X O.B.C Member
Date Posted: October 02 2020 at 3:33pm
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Busy Man.Looking forward to pics.Need to chat on a voice server.Hope to get a little gaming in soon. ------------- The microphone explodes, shattering the molds Either drop tha hits like de la O or get tha f**k off tha commode Wit tha sure shot, sure ta make tha bodies drop Bulls on parade! |