It's actually a sedative I take when I'm done trying to figure out how to create something level in a not-so-level house. As my friend would say, "there's 'level', and then there's 'level to the eye'", and that pretty much when I pour myself some JD on the rocks.

Framing is done, electrical is done (except for some staples in these photos and 1 more line to run), and everything rewired how it pretty much should be. Fridge is on it's own 20amp circuit, lights are on a lighting circuit, outlets are on an outlet circuit, and now when I turn off the furnace/boiler, it's the only thing that shuts off.





I'm fairly certain I chose boxes that were too big for this application, but I'll tell you what, I really enjoyed having the extra room in each one for the wiring. Just need to run one more line from the new light switch to the lights that will be over the counter, and I need to move the existing light switches to a different wall.

There will be base cabinets and a counter top (no back splash) on the kitchen side. The dining room side will have a bar height counter top. Once I determine how best to support that counter top it would definitely be good idea to add blocks. It's going to extend out from the wall about 10 - 11 inches, for a total of 14-15 inches in depth. I was thinking either American Walnut butcher block, or finding some original 2x4's from the second floor and planing them down and gluing them together. I like the idea of taking something that was original to the house and reusing it.

On the dining room side of the refrigerator wall where that counter top would end I may create a nice built-in shelving unit. Light it from the top and use glass shelves for the top half, wood shelves for the bottom.

A couple of corbels would work, maybe even 3...but you need to block between studs where you think they would be best placed..2x8 or 2x10 block. A few staples to keep the wire in the middle of stud, they like to see a staple (max) 12" from each box and same where its going through the floor, so theres no issues after drywall goes on. Think you call it sheet rock down there.

Originally posted by X O.B.C Member Non-UNION work really shows there Looks like C'S butchering

There is nothing plumb, straight (except me), or level in that house. Anything more than what I am doing is the equivalent of lipstick on a pig. Anyway, the last time I hired Union I had to provide my own Vaseline.

The ceilings were originally 8'2" give or take. They dropped them 8" which means I have enough space for recessed lighting in the kitchen. Going to move forward with that.

Also why Vaseline Ice? Union members have a wide ass.

Hey Ice....I couldn't help noticing you ran the wire where you're going to screw the base cabinets into the studs.

Most cabinets have backing to mount the cabinets between 31 to 34.5 inches. off the floor. 

I run the wire at 24 inches or so.